by Danilo Brunetti

What You See is What You Get

Forgo tourist traps in the historic center for a satisfying dinner at newly-opened Archivolto. Located within Hotel Scenario, the restaurant has a décor that favors modern (think metal and stone accents), but a cuisine that proves hearty. Chef Giorgio Baldari’s dishes are prepared in cocottes so as to preserve the aromas of the dishes and evoke Italy’s rustic cuisine. The menu is, in his words, “composed of high-quality ingredients, immediately recognizable on the plate without bells and whistles.” Baldari celebrates both the sea and the land: appetizers include beef bone marrow seared on the grill with breadcrumbs and parsley; porcini mushrooms with a black garlic demi-glace; and battered and fried octopus with an emulsion of star anise, potato, and paprika. The first courses play with tradition and include gnocchi alla romana with yellow tomato sauce, goat cheese, and sea urchins; and Mancini spaghetti with butter, anchovies, lemon, and dill. Stand-out second courses include organic chicken with a hot pepper glaze and celery hearts in a cider and blue cheese sauce; and lamb shank with chicory shoots and roast potatoes. For dessert, try a butter and rosemary cooked apple with salted caramel and créme anglaise; genoise cake with sweet wine; or a brioche sandwich with peanut butter, blueberry jam, and toasted marshmallow. The chef personally selects the wines, all of which hail from Italy and France.

>Vicolo delle Ceste, 28. Tel. 0639379017.