Maestro

by Danilo Brunetti

Masterful Cuisine

A new opening near Rome’s opera house offers an intriguing option for late-night dining. Federico Schiaffino shares his review.

Its proximity to Teatro Costanzi, Rome’s famed opera house, is suggested in the name of this brand-new bistro and cocktail bar—as in a maestro of an orchestra, although it could just as easily refer to a true master of taste. Maestro boasts a contemporary and minimalist style, dominated by a large green counter and an open kitchen where exquisite dishes are prepared in the Mediterranean tradition. The quality of the ingredients, carefully selected from the best produce on the market, is enhanced by the gentle creative touch of the chef, who crafted dishes that deftly tread the line between tradition and imagination. Read on for a few particularly enticing examples from the menu. Among the appetizers, stand-out options include fassona beef tartare from Piedmont with a dressing of double malt beer; and Abbot pears and carbonara-style eggs with pecorino cream sauce. Get your primo on with spaghetti with clams, bottarga, and shiso pesto; water-and- flour tonnarelli cacio e pepe with Jamaican pepper; or tortello of lavender-scented Grana Padano cheese. If you prefer a heartier dish, try the Royal Burger with Danish beef, cheddar cheese, crisp bacon, and tomato; grilled Argentinian beef cube roll; octopus alla plancia with cream of peas and candied ginger and currant; or grilled salmon steak with turnip greens. Cap of your meal on a sweet note with the hazelnut parfait with chocolate sauce or the crème brulée with yogurt and vanilla. The ample wine cellar offers a respectable selection, with a good choice of lesser-known labels, and the cocktail list brims with classic as well as more refined suggestions. It’s opening hours that stretch late into the night make it an ideal spot for an after-theater bite.

> Via Torino, 144. Tel 064823693.

Beef fillet